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An Interview with Nils Favre

Editor: How did you develop an interest in bouldering, Nils? How old were you?

Nils Favre: I started bouldering at the age of 17 because I wanted to increase my strength for lead climbing. Before this age, I climbed a lot with the rope and I enjoyed a lot. When I started bouldering I didn’t think It would be only that for the
next 5 years! Bouldering is really different than lead climbing and it’s easier for me to get motivation, I can try a lot each movement, I can go alone, too. It’s not always easy to find a belayer… I think bouldering is pretty much my style, short but really intense, powerful.


Editor: Can you tell us something about the videos we are about to watch?

Nils Favre:

Scarred For Life, 8B+ Second Ascent:

Watch the full video below:

This video is about a boulder which was probably my biggest project yet. I started to try it two years ago and I was directly really close, I fell in the last part after
only the 5th session, but after I had to do a big battle in my mind and with the
conditions to send it. This boulder was opened by Dave Graham eight years ago and
nobody repeated it after that. It’s a really long boulder with an infamous crux
in the beginning, the 4 first movements are around 8B boulder and after it’s a
long 8A+ with a small rest in the middle. For me, it’s my hardest boulder yet,
and much more harder than the four other 8B+ I have done.


One Day in Targasone:

Watch the full video below:

I was driving back from Spain because it was raining and I decided to spend one day
in the famous place of Targasone in France. I checked some videos before to go
and two classic lines motivated me a lot. The first one is 'Psoas Mole, 8B', the boulder is about 4 movements, really hard, so I was interested to try a 8B with only a few movements to see if I’m able to do it or not. My flash try was really good, I fell in the crux which is to put up the right foot really high, and after some tries to figure out the, I did it. On the way to go to my other project, there was a really nice classic 8A called 'Uniformicide' so I decided to give a flash go and I flashed it.

After that I rested a bit, and went to 'La Théorie du Chaos, 8B' which is completely my style, a prow with compression move and hard heel lock. I was close again in the flash and did it 10 minutes later. It was a really nice day for me, it’s a shame that I spent only one day there because it looks there is a lot to do in Targasonne!


The Dagger 8b+

Watch the full video below:

Editor: Who are your favorite boulderers/climbers?

Nils Favre: I don’t think I have a favorite climber but a lot of strong climber really inspired me when I was younger. I watched a lot of videos with Dave Graham and Chris Sharma and they motivated me a lot. But when I travel for bouldering in a famous bouldering area, each time the best looking line in hard grade are open by Fred Nicole so for sure he's a guy who inspired me a lot. And now there is the famous Jimmy Webb who has so much strength, so it’s really impressive and inspiring to see him climbing. 

Editor: What is your favorite bouldering problem?

Nils Favre: I don’t have favorite problem, or I would say I have a LOT of favorite
problems! There are boulders where I spend a lot of time on them and I really enjoyed them like 'The Dagger, 8B+' in Cresciano or 'Scarred For Life Sit, 8B+'  in Fionnay. But some of the best boulder for the climb and the looking for me are 'Shosholoza, 8A+ in Rocklands, 'Special Edition, 8A' in Brione or 'Esperanza, 8B' in Albarracin. There is so much bouldering, I can answer this question
like every warm up boulder in Fontainebleau…

Check out all of Nils Favre's bouldering videos here, they're simply fantastic and inspiring:

Interview conducted by Vera Kaikobad L. Ac.
Editor of the Facebook page: 'An Interview With'.
Editor-in-Chief of
Interview © Vera Kaikobad L. Ac.
All images © of the designated photographer Vivi Mo.

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Nils Favre - The Dagger, 8b+, Cresciano. Photography by: Vivi Mo

On the Cover: Nils Favre

Cover Date: December 12th, 2014