Will Stanhope's name is on everyone's mind right now. He is super-popular, professional and very well liked in the climbing community. He's a strong, disciplined climber and picks his projects carefully. In a truly historic effort, Will has freed the Tom Egan Memorial Route on Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos (he freed every pitch).
This beautiful 13-pitch route, which is known as is one of the most technically difficult all-free alpine rock routes in North America, climbs from the East Face to the Yellow Tower on the Northeast Ridge. Congratulations Will, on a tremendous effort...we're all so proud of you. Read on a bit more to get to know this climbing star a little better.
'The Super-Fast 12'
This feature asks our guest 12 questions that they have to answer, you guessed it: super-fast!
1. Your age when you first started climbing and where?
Age 8, North Vancouver BC, the Edge Climbing Center.
2. Route name, grade of first send.
My first 5.12a was at the Petrifying Wall, Squamish BC. It was called Flingus Cling. My old friend and climbing team coach Mike Doyle used to take us youngsters out climbing outside, which was a really nice thing to do. Thanks, Mike. I think I was 14 or so.
3. Favorite climbers, name of your first climbing instructor.
Some climbers I look up to include Sonnie Trotter, Peter Croft, Tim Emmett, Leo Houlding and Brooke Sandahl. I've always been inspired by climbers that have followed their own path, and clearly still love doing it. My first climbing instructor was a guy named Andrew Wilson. He's still doing loads for competitive climbing in Canada and has mentored lots of young people, me included. Hats off.
4. All-time-favorite places to climb in the world.
I've always been most inspired by big granite walls. Places like Squamish, the Bugaboos, Yosemite and Patagonia. I'd love to go visit Greenland and Pakistan some day. But there's lifetimes of jaw-dropping in BC alone that take some sleuthing to find information about.
5. Favorite food? Are you a tea or coffee person?
Apple pie. Coffee for sure.
6. What type of climbing do you prefer: alpinism, bouldering, big walls, sport/trad?
I like it all but recently I've been most into big wall free climbing.
7. Are we doing enough on protecting the environment?
No, sadly we are not doing enough to protect the environment. I always feel hypocritical pointing fingers in this regard because we as climbers travel so much for climbing. But, in defense of sponsored climbing, I truly believe that exposing people to these wild places encourages them to experience the places for themselves, and ultimately, to protect them.
8. Night owl or morning person?
This recent climb kinda turned me into a night owl because we had to wait so long for conditions to cool down on the wall.
9. Favorite climbing movie (or any movie)? What type of tunes are you rocking to these days?
Forrest Gump. Recently I've been into Brit rock bands like the Libertines and Babyshambles. Authentic and gritty. It got me fired up on the wall.
10. What gift has climbing given to you emotionally? (You were born to climb, that's why we're asking.)
I would say climbing has given me the gift to think outside the box, and not be deterred by wild objectives. We were taught in school to follow a certain path to a specific career. Climbing showed me that there was a world beyond that. You can just pick the wildest objective you can think of, and go for it. There's no finger wagging referees in climbing, and that always appealed to me.
11. Any advice you can share with fans about climbing?
Be hyper-attentive to the details and never let your guard down, at the crags on in the mountains. Climbing is such an unforgiving sport. Also, try to leave the cliffs and mountains cleaner than when you found them. Barry Blanchard said it best : "Tread lightly upon the heights, lads."
12. 3 things you never go climbing without, and if you weren't a climber, what would you have been?
Swiss Army knife. Trusty Metolius chalk bag. Arcteryx Nuclei hoody.
I think I'd be a skier or something like that. I love being in nature, and adrenaline/ pushing through fear is certainly a big part of why we do these things.
'The Super-Fast 12' © and conducted by Vera Kaikobad L. Ac.
Administrator of the Facebook Page 'An Interview With'.
Editor-in-Chief of ClimbSkiBoulderMagazine.com
Interview © Vera Kaikobad L. Ac.
On the Cover:
Answers The Super-Fast 12
Cover Date: August 30th, 2015